Preservatives in Natural Products

You may or may not have noticed that my posts for my series “The Globes” for February were scant–this was not intentional.  The vast majority of the product lines I was researching contained the same ingredient, which upon further research was a preservative listed under a trade name.  Initially, it seemed as if it was yet again another ‘hidden’ ingredient in “natural” hair products.  However, upon further research, though this particular preservative was most common, it was by no means the only one being used.  This extends into skin care as well.  Parabens have been the primary focus in addressing preservatives and chemicals in personal care products, however, their replacements may not be any better.  This is an example of why reading ingredient labels thoroughly, and having significant scientific basis for ‘condemning’ an ingredient is crucial.  Products that are sold commercially have to be preserved to assure their safety, therefore, cosmetic chemists replace parabens with something that can be equally as bad, unbeknownst to the average consumer who is assured by the label ‘paraben free,’ which does not mean preservative free.  The primary focus of Nature’s Pulchritude is to educate.  I want to make sure that you (and I) understand the impacts, if any, of any preservative in products on the market, whether marketed as natural organic or otherwise, before you purchase a product that contains them.  This post has been long in the making and is the precursor to a series of in depth posts that will educate you about the various preservatives in hair and skin products, as well as their potential toxicity.

Did you know that your products contained non paraben preservatives that can also impact your health?  What are some preservatives you know that are used in personal care products?

Zoya Carter (Swatches & Review)

Brand: Zoya
Color: Carter
Collection: Pixiedust Fall 2013

Zoya Carter

I recently purchased this shade after eyeing it since promotional photos and swatches were first released.  Pixiedust is Zoya’s version of the textured polish craze that appears to be here to stay in the nail polish world.  Zoya describes Carter as “a royal purple with a strong magenta sparkling, matte and textured finish”.  I chose a polish by Zoya to be my first nail polish review because of their commitment to ‘healthy’ nail polish and being one of the first brands to go Big 5-Free (Toulene, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin, Dibutyl Phthalate, Camphor).

Product/Formula

The formula on this was quite good and comparable to other textured polishes on the market.  The glitter is evenly distributed in the bottle and on the nail, and the glitter did not lose its color after several days of wear.

.9 Globe

Zoya Carter

Application

Zoya suggests applying the polish in 3 thin coats.  The first coat (picture below) was easy to apply, however, the 2nd coat was difficult to apply but I figured it out (I brushed & dabbed the polish on).  The 3rd coat was easier to apply.  In each photo the polish was completely dry.  Was not difficult to remove using a partially acetone polish remover.

.8 Globe

Zoya Carter 1 Coat

Zoya Carter 2 Coats

Color

The base is a matte purple with magenta glitter.  The press photos show a much deeper purple with more shimmer, however in person the polish is a bit more flat and not as dark.  I would have liked to see the base have more glitter and be accented by a true purple glitter.

.7 Globe

Courtesy of Art of Beauty/Zoya

Wear

This polish wore pretty well.  I did have bad chipping after only having the polish on for 24 hours, but the culprit was a hand soap that contained sodium lauryl sulfate, so be mindful of that when you do a manicure.  Only 3 nails chipped significantly, the rest only have minor tip wear after 7 full days.

.9 Globe

EnviroFactor

Ingredients: Butyl Acetate, Ethyl Acetate Nitrocellulose, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Ste[a]r[al]konium Hectroite, Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer

As previously mentioned this product does not contain toulene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, dibutyl phthalate, or camphor.  Some of the ingredients it contains are toxic to the lungs and nervous system, which is not at all surprising considering it is nail polish.  It is best to polish nails in a well ventilated area and do not inhale over an open bottle.

.9 Globe

Overall, the biggest drawback of this polish was the color.  I wanted a deep royal purple and this just was not that.  It is still a good, quality polish so if you like the color do not be deterred!

4.2/5 Globes 

Label Poise: Ingredients, Chemicals, Extracts, Oh My! Part II

What to avoid when shopping for cosmetics and consumer products, and food.  Check out Part I of this post for more information, and Educate Yourself for a complete list.

Beware!

Propylene Glycol aka 1,2-dihydroxypropane, 1,2-propanediol, Methyl Glycol, PG, PPG, and Trimethyl Glycol.  Propylene Glycol is commonly found in lipsticks, sunscreen, and facial cleansers.   Its purpose in these products is to maintain the moisture content.  Though it can be derived naturally it is typically synthetically derived. This chemical can also be used as an antifreeze.  It has been linked to contact dermatitis and other skin irritations, as well as having observed effects on the kidneys and respiratory system.  This ingredient may be toxic to the central nervous system from inhalation.  This ingredient typically isn’t high on the ingredient list but you should still exercise caution.

Polyethylene Glycol aka PEG.  It is commonly found in skin creams.  PEG can penetrate the skin and bring other substances with it, so be mindful of that if you use a product that contains this ingredient. PEG may cause slight skin irritance, though it is not typically considered an irritant.  Concentrations in many cosmetics are not likely to cause these impacts.

-Ethanolamines aka DEA (Diethanolamine), TEA (Triethanolamine) and MEA (Monoethanolamine), Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide MEA, Myristamide DEA, Oleamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, TEA-Lauryl Sulfate.  -Ethanolamines are amino alcohols and can be found in shampoos and other personal care products.  Released into the environment they can have a high biological oxygen demand, though concentrations in personal care products are unlikely to be enough to cause this (though it is dependent on various other factors including water treatment).  MEA can also be toxic to various aquatic organisms at low-medium concentrations; DEA can be toxic at medium-high concentrations.  They can be toxic if absorbed by the skin (concentrations in cosmetics are not likely to be high enough).  Though links to cancer have been made for DEA to lab animals, the same conclusions have not been made for humans.

Preservatives aka Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone.  These are preservatives within the isothiazolinone group that have been used for their antibacterial and antifungal properties. This ingredient can be found in foundations, eyeliners, mascaras, lotions and creams, and soaps, among others. These are typically the last ingredients listed, therefore concentrations are typically low.  Both ingredients have been linked to allergic contact dermatitis and reported incidences of allergies have increased with methylisothiazolinone being named contact allergen of the year in 2013.

Beware!/Avoid! (These ingredients do not qualify to be exclusively ‘Avoid!’ but have more information than ingredients listed ‘Beware!’)

Triclosan.  It used an an antibacterial and antifungal agent in personal care products such as soaps, toothpaste, deodorants, lip balms, and some cosmetics.  Triclosan is under review by the FDA based on various scientific studies that have indicated that the chemical may be a hormone (endocrine system) disruptor, and may contribute to making bacteria antibiotic resistant.  Triclosan is also suspected to bioaccumlate (increase in concentration in fatty tissues), and has been detected in breast milk.  It is also suspected to be harmful to the immune system.  Triclosan is banned in the EU in concentrations over 0.3 percent, at this time I am not certain of the concentrations used in the aforementioned products.

Phthalates aka Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), diethylphthalate (DEP), dimethylphthalate (DMP), Butyl Benzyl Phthalate (BBP), Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP).  Phthalates are typically used as plasticizers, and were common in nail polish, lotions, fragrances, and some hair sprays.  According to the FDA, phthalates are considered ‘safe’ in adults, though phthalate usage has declined in cosmetics since 2004 likely due to consumer pressure.  Phthalates are suspected to cause damage to the liver, lungs, heart, and kidneys, as well as negatively impact development and reproduction in animals.  Similar impacts in humans have yet to be observed.  DEP is the most commonly used presently.

Stearalkonium Chloride.  This ingredient is an ammonium salt and is most commonly found in hair conditioners and acts as a conditioner, anti-static agent, and softener.  It was originally used by the fabric industry for use as a softener.  This ingredient can be an irritant at high concentrations.  It is not suspected to be toxic at the levels used in conditioners.

Introducing… The Globes featuring Oyin Handmade

“The Globes” will be a series of posts that highlight companies and organizations that make high quality personal care products and cosmetics, utilizing natural and organic ingredients.

In honor of Black History Month, February’s “The Globes” will feature black owned businesses with a commitment to high quality products and ingredients.  Each company has been carefully selected because they align with focal points of this site.  None of these companies have paid to be featured and all opinions are my own!

Oyin Handmade

Image courtesy of Oyin Handmade

If you have natural hair, chances are you have heard of Oyin Handmade.  The company was founded in 2001 by Jamyla Bennu and is based out of Baltimore, Maryland.  Jamyla’s vision was to create natural body care products with quality and nourishing ingredients, which she has accomplished and expanded upon.  The company offers a variety of products for hair and skin, which are all handmade in small batches.  Oyin products never use “petroleum, silicones, parabens, or non-nourishing fillers,” but instead utilize ingredients such as “unrefined shea butter, nutritive sea vegetables, pure aloe vera juice, nourishing vitamins, and herbal infusions” which are “chosen for their beneficial and healing properties.”  Natural and nourishing, we love it!  They also offer several vegan products for those of you are on the hunt for quality vegan products (Greg Juice, Grand Poo Bar, Funk Butter, AfterBath Oil, Coffee Butter Lip Balm, Burnt Sugar Braid Pomade, and Whipped Shea Butter).

I have personally used their products (Honey Hemp Conditioner, Whipped Pudding, and Shine & Define) and each had great ingredients, performed up to their claims, and the fact that they smelled divine didn’t hurt!  Nature’s Pulchritude is delighted to present Oyin Handmade with the inaugural “Globe” of recognition!

Fun Facts:  Their store (open Saturday’s) in Baltimore just celebrated its 5 year anniversary (congrats)!   Oyin is the Yoruba word for honey.

Visit their website to learn more about their products!

If you would like your business featured or would like to recommend a business to be featured in “The Globes,” visit the “Contact” page to get in touch with us!

Have you ever tried Oyin Handmade products, what were your experiences?

How to Read Cosmetic Ingredient Labels (Follow Up)

Yesterday I gave you some tips to help you read the ingredient label for the leave-in conditioner/styler we found at the store. I left you with the question: Would you buy this product?

The Label

Lets go through the ingredients:

For reference:  Safe! is safe to use an are considered innocuous.  Beware! is a discretionary suggestion though their is no or limited information on toxicity.  Avoid! means an ingredient is toxic or hazardous.

Water (Aqua): Safe, Of Course! Having water as the first ingredient is a good sign as water based conditioners provide moisture to the hair.

Cetyl Alcohol: Safe! This is a fatty alcohol that is often used as an emollient and emulsifier in conditioners. It is typically derived naturally from coconut or palm oil.

Stearyl Alcohol: Safe! This is also a fatty alcohol that is often used as an emollient and emulsifier in conditioner. It is typically derived from
fats.

PEG-50 Shea Butter: Avoid! So I’m sure you recognized “Shea Butter,” but what is “PEG-50?” Remember what I said earlier about using scientific naming, and if it looks like a “chemical?” This ingredient is a Polyethylene Glycol derivative used to make the Shea Butter water soluble. This ingredient is not toxic, but I do not recommend it. (Author’s Note: I compared Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for this ingredient and unrefined Shea Butter. This ingredient alone (not mixed) may cause slight irritation and should be washed off with copious amounts of soap and water; unrefined Shea Butter did not list these health hazards).

Ethylhexyl Palmitate: Beware! Is used as an emollient, derived from fatty (Palmitic) acids (palm oil). It may be a skin or eye irritant, with low to medium toxicity (via MSDS).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Safe! This ingredient is used as an emollient and is typically derived from coconut oil and glycerin.

Polyquaternium-11: Safe/Beware! It is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and is used for its antistatic properties. It is generally considered safe. This ingredient can cause buildup so use at your discretion.

Coco Nucifera (Coconut Oil): Safe! However, if your hair is sensitive to protein be leary if it is higher on the list.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil: Safe! This ‘oil’ is a liquid wax and has a moderate fatty acid content.

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil: Safe! This oil contains Vitamin E and contains antioxidants.

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil: Safe! This oil is believed to be high in fatty acids and help fortify the hair.

Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): Safe/Beware! Tocpheryl Acetate is has antioxidant properties and can penetrate skin cells. It is generally regarded as safe however I saw some information (not on a MSDS) linking it to cancer so use your best discretion.

Glycerin: Safe! Glycerin is a humectant that attracts moisture in the hair, if you are ‘glycerin sensitive’ avoid this product. Glycerine can be derive from fats and oils or synthetically.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice: Safe!

Carbomer: Beware! Used as a thickener, typically at very low concentrations. This ingredient is not toxic, but can be slightly hazardous upon skin contact. Concentrations likely not high enough to be hazardous.

Triethanolamine: Avoid! Triethanolamine is used as a stabilizer and pH adjuster. This ingredient is not a known carcinogen to humans, however it has mutagenic effects in “mammalian somatic cells” (cell forming the body of mammals), may be toxic to kidneys, liver, and skin (via MSDS). Similar studies have found Triethanolamine to be toxic to aquatic species, cause contact allergies, and was found to cause tumor in the livers of female rats. (Author’s note: Toxicity is dependent on dose, therefore the quantity may be too low for these effects to be observed after using this product).

Fragrance (Parfum): Beware! Fragrances are often synthetic. Though they are low in concentration in the product, here is still a small chance of having an allergic reaction

Dehydroacetic Acid: Beware! This is used to prevent bacterial or fungal growth and is not believed to be toxic but is hazardous if it comes in contact with skin.

Benzyl Alcohol: Beware! This ingredient is made naturally by many plants or can be synthetically derived. It is used as a preservative and based on its placement on the list is the lowest quantity. This can be slightly hazardous with skin contact, but due to its concentration it should be okay.

This product starts off good, but the PEG-50 Shea Butter as the 4th ingredient was a red flag for me. Though there are only 2 ingredients that were rated “Avoid!,” several of the other ingredients got a ranking of “Beware!” not for toxicity but for assumed performance. This product may work excellently for many people, but based on the ingredients there are better quality products out there. Those of you who commented on my last post were absolutely right!

I would NOT buy this product!

Feel free to leave questions and comments below.  Thank you for reading!

When to Buy Natural and Organic Products

Buying Natural and Organic products isn’t always the best option.  Natural and Organic do not automatically equate good, nor are they always cost effective.

The key takeaways from this blog are to educate yourself and buy what works best for YOU!

I don’t only use natural and organic products, some products have some unfavorable ingredients, but they work for me and I haven’t found a comparable replacement.

You will see product reviews for products that are not 100% natural or organic, but most of them have quality ingredients and are closer to natural than chemical laden.

Stay tuned, new content coming soon!  Thank you for reading!